Pico de Loro, Nasugbu, Batangas, Philippines
May 7, 2012
After weeks of riding of riding laps on an 18km (11mile) flat circuit near Pico de Loro, I decided that today I would ride repeats on the big hill to the north.
Pico de Loro Beach and Country Club is the resort where I am based with my pro-triathlete wife Ali, in the Philippines. Pico de Loro means “Parrot Peak” because of a rock formation at the summit of a local peak that looks like a Parrot’s beak.

Pico de Loro "Parrot Peak" - 2178 ft./664 m
It was named thus by the Spanish 400 odd years ago. Nasugbu is a regional town around 18kms away on the other side of some big hills, and for some reason that I do not understand the address of where we stay includes this town. Probably the nearest place of significance. Batangas is a state on the Island of Luzon, which is where Jungle Training happens.

Power meters to local farms
This adventure actually only takes me 6.6km (4miles) away from where I live, the distance being split roughly in to thirds – the first third is flatland, the next third is steeply uphill, and the last third is less steeply downhill the other side, then a u-turn and back to where I started. I did this 4 times, to give me roughly 50kms (30 miles) of riding today.

Local farmhouse that I pass daily. My best cheer squad lives here
The flat part was fast and easy through subsistence farmlands, slowing for a small village called Patanungan around half way toward the start of the hilly climb. Patanungan provides for a multitude of novelties, least of which is a small but growing knot of little kids who position themselves strategically and yell “HI!” at the top of their voices as I go past. I have found over the weeks that I can actually “train” different “knots” as some I yell “HI!” and they say “HI!” back to me, whilst others I yell “HELLOOOOOO”, and they mimic the same back to me.

Rooster ruling the road
In the village and associated approaches there are a host of dangers that I need to watch out for, including cracks in the concrete road, rocks on the road, cattle, water buffalo, goats, roosters, chickens, dogs, cats, kids, people, motor tricycles, cars, trucks, motor-bike riders, and my friend goose.

My mate Goose was a real problem on the road

Goat making strategic exit from road
Goose is a particular concern, for when he/she/it as a large he takes a proprietary interest in his patch of road and defends it with much energetic honking. He strategically places himself (usually dead ahead of you) so that you have to brake almost to a stop. When stopped you are at a great disadvantage from goose attack.

Erratic mob of cattle trotting down road
From being goosed you can move on to cattle (and sometimes water buffalo), who are smart enough to know that roads are great for getting from A to B quickly, but leave a long trail of pads advertising their passage. Again ya gotta slow right down – they are rarely aggressive, but are too big to tangle with at speed, and they are inclined to do sudden and unpredictable things when startled.

One of my loyal cheer squad of kids - they are great!
From the lowlands you angle sharply upwards, by my estimate an average gradient of 10%, for another 2.2kms (1.4miles) to the top of the hill, then a winding slightly less aggressive downhill to the end of the road a similar distance beyond. The concrete road then ends abruptly and beyond is an unknown wilderness to me.

End of the road to me, with unknown wilderness beyond - note rocks on road
This hilly part is through tropical jungle, which combined with the incredible rainfall they get here, provides significant challenges to the engineers trying to provide safe and reliable roads. The rain saturates the soil and accompanying rocks, which then seek to find the shortest and fastest route to sea level.

A well-vegetated landslip closing half the road. Spot my bike?
The road has evidence of significant land slips in several places, large boulders that have dislodged and come to rest by the road, huge wash-outs at the edge of the road, and lots of small rocks over the road from fretting in cuttings.

A big landslip out of photo to R has caused a big chunk of concrete road to crack

The massive "suicide crack" in the road provides a handy bike stand while I take pics
Add all this to cracking in the concrete road, sundry cattle and jungle animals, plus countless cow-poos, and you have an interesting ride.

Serial poos call for great skill and cunning riding; especially downhill
The positives are that whilst I am only around 80-90kms (50-55miles) as the crow flies SSW from Manila (near the West coast), the area is considered relatively remote, and traffic by Philippine standards is negligible. Those tricycles, motorbikes and Jeepneys that do pass you are intrigued by your novelty, and energetic waves are accompanied by friendly toots on horns.

Great views to the flatlands below
This little corner of paradise is about to change, as in the unknown wilderness beyond the end of the concrete there are people digging a tunnel through a mountain. Once this is done and a few last stretches of road are paved, then the travel time from Manila will be almost halved, and this little-trafficked road will become a major thoroughfare. Paradise to hell currently stands at around 9 months hence.

Rocks on road and sharp drop-off at the edges mean you stay on-road at all costs
And a few people familiar with the local area have told me that this area was, until quite recently, a favoured haunt of PLA (communist) guerrillas. I assure myself that the occasional guns discharges that I hear are simply local farmers out hunting game.

The intimidating water buffalo seem to have a very gentle nature
The real challenges, notwithstanding, are the heat and humidity, which are suffocating. There is no breeze, and the uphill grind gets you really working. I end up drinking around 5 litres (1.3 US gallons), or a litre every 10kms (a quart every 6 miles) for my 50kms/30miles, then I drink non-stop for several hours after I finish.
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A big rock that fell off the mountain comes to rest at the roadside
My bike jersey and nicks are saturated in perspiration, with sweat sheeting off, draining in rivulets down my arms to my gloved hands, and down my legs and across my calves, and inside my shoes. It all then overflows to the road.
I ride the obstacle course slowly downhill, squeezing my rear brake really hard with my sopping hand, my rear rim becoming red hot. Then out from the right darts this big monitor lizard, around 1.2m long (4 feet); I brake harder to avoid him, and he darts back in to the jungle. A near miss.

Woman & girl, probably mother & daughter, washing clothes with water from a well. Filipino country folk wear colourful clothes, and take great pride in clean clothing
On my last repeat up the hill I stop at a tiny shop in Patanungan to top up one of my 4 bidons as I was getting critically low on water. A little boy, maybe 5 or 6, quietly sidles up to my bike and checks the pressure in my front tyre, apparently very pleased with himself at being so bold. He gives me a cheeky smile.
There are 8 or so teenagers’ playing cards in a shady alcove nearby. The appearance of a “white-skin” shopping, an oddity and a rare occurrence in their little village, is accompanied by giggles and laughter, no doubt someone making the sort of joke that people the world over make in such situations. It is probably a little rude, and understandably so, or else it would not be so funny.
I smile and laugh too, which is taken in good grace and everyone looks around sheepishly. The girl serving kindly fills my bidon no charge, and risking further ridicule I chance my hand and say “Salaamat”, my version of “thank you” in Tagalog, the local language here.
The leading jokester playing cards corrects my faulty emphasis and says “Tagalog Salamaat”, with a stress on the final syllable. I mimic exactly what he says, “Tagalog Salamaat” to the approving chuckles of everyone, and head on my way.
A gathering crowd of little kids, both the “Hi’s” and the “Hello’s”, watch with big eyes as I disappear down the road, dripping sweat behind me.
Not a long, but an interesting jungle training ride. Average speed 17kms/hr (10.5mph).

With teeny-weeny horns, this beast was more interested in food than in passing bikers